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The villagers here have a long history of coffee cultivation, and they remain faithful to their traditional methods — planting trees on small plots near their houses.
We had planned to include coffees from several other Indo-Pacific islands – Java, Bali, East Timor – but we were not able to source enough samples to justify including them. Both, by the way, are classic specialty origins: both, for example, appeared on the first coffee menus Alfred Peet hung over his counter in his Vine Street store in 1966, the frequently-cited debut moment of the specialty coffee movement. With every delicious coffee, there is a wide range of variables that make it special: the location, varietal, processing method, altitude, and more.
This month’s reviews include coffees from two Indo-Pacific growing regions, the Indonesian island of Sulawesi (formerly Celebes) and Papua New Guinea. We look forward to our morning coffee when it is the Sulawesi and I bought 25 pounds to be certain we don't run out. Some of this sophistication appears to have been applied to the only clearly traditional wet-hulled Sulawesi we review here, the 91-rated Ghost Town Sulawesi Toraja Mamasa, where a pleasantly dry, clay-like earth (my cupping partner Jason Sarley called it a “graham cracker” note) remained to contribute originality and complication to a chocolaty yet tart cup.Starting in 1976, a joint Japanese-Indonesian enterprise, Toarco, established itself in the Toraja region, aiming to elevate quality and replace traditional wet-hulling with the orthodox wet or washed method prevailing elsewhere in the coffee world. Because of this range of sourcing, individual lots of Toarco coffee can vary in sensory detail, although the typical profile might be described as brighter and cleaner than traditional wet-hulled coffees while still displaying a characteristic honeyish, chocolate-and-fruit pungency. The formally wet-processed “plantation” coffees came with grade designations like AA and A, while the tribal coffees were bulked together and relegated to the opposite end of the alphabet, as grade Y.Over the past twenty years or so the situation has grown more fluid and complex, however. The subsequent drying down to 12% is often haphazard. The highest-rated Chromatic (94) was the lightest roasted of the four, whereas the somewhat lower-rated Allegro (91) and Revel (90) were roasted slightly darker, approaching a classic medium. Known for its earthy body and smooth finish, this bean features rich notes of chocolate and a heady, exotic aroma. Complex and earthy, it is a delightful indulgence for many, especially coffee connoisseurs. The result of wet-hulling plus haphazard drying is the famous “earth” notes of traditional Sumatra and Sulawesi coffees, really a mild mustiness.
(See Better and Better: Sumatras 2013). This Sulawesi Coffee is a lighter version of the Sumatra Mandheling Coffee which is less pungent and less heavy. All qualify under Specialty Coffee of America terminology as light-to-medium-roasted, but the Topéca, the lightest roasted (by a slight margin) showed the brightest acidity and most nut-like character, while the Propeller, the darkest roasted (again, by a slight margin) of the three, showed the most depth, resonance and chocolate.About 2,000 miles or so east of Sulawesi, the country of Papua New Guinea (PNG) occupies the eastern half of the vast, mountainous island of New Guinea. The Papua New Guinea coffee industry was pioneered in the 1950s by expatriates who introduced familiar, conventional wet-processing methods that produce a cleaner, more familiar profile than produced by the Indonesian wet-hulling procedure (a method that apparently evolved out of practices introduced by the Dutch into Java as early as the 1740’s). Was this review helpful? Sulawesi (Celebes) Toraja Wet Hulled, Sun Dried, Shade Grown. Like by ctulya@msn.com on March 29, 2010. Some small producer coffees have improved through better organization and processing and are no longer bulked with others, while formal plantations largely have dissolved into centralized mills buying both coffee fruit and parchment coffee from small holders. The Chromatic Coffee PNG Kunjin version of this note was particularly deep and juicy.And lest anyone, on the basis of our slightly higher ratings for very slightly darker roasts in the case of the three Toarco Sulawesis, is tempted to conclude that we prefer roasts at the darker end of medium-light, I need to point out that our ratings trended in exactly the opposite direction with the four PNGs. Toarco (TOraja ARabica COffee) is a coffee project in the famous Sulawesi coffee growing region of Toraja developed and financed by Japan’s Key Coffee Company and its Indonesian partners. 95 ($19.95/Count) He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies over five editions. Copyright © 2020 Coffee Review. Drinking coffee in the region it was produced: Toraja, Sulawesi. Tried again at Full City and let it rest for 3 days. On the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, not far from the village Kalossi, the high-altitude volcanic soil is perfect for growing coffee.
Sulawesi Coffee is a full bodied and sweet in taste. Tried this at Full City Plus, rested 1 day and it tasted really burnt. The other two were produced on what sound like relatively small coffee estates – the PT’s Papua New Guinea Sihereni (92) and the Allegro Papua New Guinea Baroida (91).
The villagers here have a long history of coffee cultivation, and they remain faithful to their traditional methods — planting trees on small plots near their houses.
We had planned to include coffees from several other Indo-Pacific islands – Java, Bali, East Timor – but we were not able to source enough samples to justify including them. Both, by the way, are classic specialty origins: both, for example, appeared on the first coffee menus Alfred Peet hung over his counter in his Vine Street store in 1966, the frequently-cited debut moment of the specialty coffee movement. With every delicious coffee, there is a wide range of variables that make it special: the location, varietal, processing method, altitude, and more.
This month’s reviews include coffees from two Indo-Pacific growing regions, the Indonesian island of Sulawesi (formerly Celebes) and Papua New Guinea. We look forward to our morning coffee when it is the Sulawesi and I bought 25 pounds to be certain we don't run out. Some of this sophistication appears to have been applied to the only clearly traditional wet-hulled Sulawesi we review here, the 91-rated Ghost Town Sulawesi Toraja Mamasa, where a pleasantly dry, clay-like earth (my cupping partner Jason Sarley called it a “graham cracker” note) remained to contribute originality and complication to a chocolaty yet tart cup.Starting in 1976, a joint Japanese-Indonesian enterprise, Toarco, established itself in the Toraja region, aiming to elevate quality and replace traditional wet-hulling with the orthodox wet or washed method prevailing elsewhere in the coffee world. Because of this range of sourcing, individual lots of Toarco coffee can vary in sensory detail, although the typical profile might be described as brighter and cleaner than traditional wet-hulled coffees while still displaying a characteristic honeyish, chocolate-and-fruit pungency. The formally wet-processed “plantation” coffees came with grade designations like AA and A, while the tribal coffees were bulked together and relegated to the opposite end of the alphabet, as grade Y.Over the past twenty years or so the situation has grown more fluid and complex, however. The subsequent drying down to 12% is often haphazard. The highest-rated Chromatic (94) was the lightest roasted of the four, whereas the somewhat lower-rated Allegro (91) and Revel (90) were roasted slightly darker, approaching a classic medium. Known for its earthy body and smooth finish, this bean features rich notes of chocolate and a heady, exotic aroma. Complex and earthy, it is a delightful indulgence for many, especially coffee connoisseurs. The result of wet-hulling plus haphazard drying is the famous “earth” notes of traditional Sumatra and Sulawesi coffees, really a mild mustiness.
(See Better and Better: Sumatras 2013). This Sulawesi Coffee is a lighter version of the Sumatra Mandheling Coffee which is less pungent and less heavy. All qualify under Specialty Coffee of America terminology as light-to-medium-roasted, but the Topéca, the lightest roasted (by a slight margin) showed the brightest acidity and most nut-like character, while the Propeller, the darkest roasted (again, by a slight margin) of the three, showed the most depth, resonance and chocolate.About 2,000 miles or so east of Sulawesi, the country of Papua New Guinea (PNG) occupies the eastern half of the vast, mountainous island of New Guinea. The Papua New Guinea coffee industry was pioneered in the 1950s by expatriates who introduced familiar, conventional wet-processing methods that produce a cleaner, more familiar profile than produced by the Indonesian wet-hulling procedure (a method that apparently evolved out of practices introduced by the Dutch into Java as early as the 1740’s). Was this review helpful? Sulawesi (Celebes) Toraja Wet Hulled, Sun Dried, Shade Grown. Like by ctulya@msn.com on March 29, 2010. Some small producer coffees have improved through better organization and processing and are no longer bulked with others, while formal plantations largely have dissolved into centralized mills buying both coffee fruit and parchment coffee from small holders. The Chromatic Coffee PNG Kunjin version of this note was particularly deep and juicy.And lest anyone, on the basis of our slightly higher ratings for very slightly darker roasts in the case of the three Toarco Sulawesis, is tempted to conclude that we prefer roasts at the darker end of medium-light, I need to point out that our ratings trended in exactly the opposite direction with the four PNGs. Toarco (TOraja ARabica COffee) is a coffee project in the famous Sulawesi coffee growing region of Toraja developed and financed by Japan’s Key Coffee Company and its Indonesian partners. 95 ($19.95/Count) He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies over five editions. Copyright © 2020 Coffee Review. Drinking coffee in the region it was produced: Toraja, Sulawesi. Tried again at Full City and let it rest for 3 days. On the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, not far from the village Kalossi, the high-altitude volcanic soil is perfect for growing coffee.
Sulawesi Coffee is a full bodied and sweet in taste. Tried this at Full City Plus, rested 1 day and it tasted really burnt. The other two were produced on what sound like relatively small coffee estates – the PT’s Papua New Guinea Sihereni (92) and the Allegro Papua New Guinea Baroida (91).